Last Month, I went to the Holy town of Chitrakoot, after much persistence from my wife. I, being an atheist, am not much interested in visiting cities with nothing but religion to offer. And, with such views, I was expecting a less-than-interesting trip while visiting Chitrakoot. However, the two days that I spent in the town changed my perception of such places for good.
I would not go over the moon calling the place Heavenly, but, there is definitely a tranquility in various parts of the town, which cannot be matched by big cities and Metros. After Ayodhya, Chitrakoot is the the most important place related to Lord Ram, an Incarnation of Lord Vishnu (a Hindu God), known for his righteousness and for being an Ideal ruler of Men. However, even with such importance attached to it, the place does not boast of as many visitors as other religious places like Mathura, Haridwar, and, etc. And, therein lies the best part. A visitor to this place can enjoy all that this place has to offer without being bothered about crowds.
I would not go over the moon calling the place Heavenly, but, there is definitely a tranquility in various parts of the town, which cannot be matched by big cities and Metros. After Ayodhya, Chitrakoot is the the most important place related to Lord Ram, an Incarnation of Lord Vishnu (a Hindu God), known for his righteousness and for being an Ideal ruler of Men. However, even with such importance attached to it, the place does not boast of as many visitors as other religious places like Mathura, Haridwar, and, etc. And, therein lies the best part. A visitor to this place can enjoy all that this place has to offer without being bothered about crowds.
We reached Chitrakoot in the evening at around 7 P.M. on 20th Nov. '10, and, luckily, the Autowallah dropped us right at the door of the place that we intended to stay at. The Tourist Bungalow of the UPSTDC (Uttar Pradesh State Tourism Development Corporation), or Rahi Yatri Niwas, is the best place to stay in Chitrakoot. Even though, it is the costliest place to stay in Chitrakoot as compared to other avenues of accommodation, the maximum rate of Rs. 999 per night, for their best room, is not expensive by city standards. There are cheaper options available in Chitrakoot, with Hotels ranging from Rs. 150 – 500 per night, and Dharamshalas ranging from Rs. 50 – 300 per night. However, keeping in mind the levels of Safety, Hygiene, Room Service, Room Size, Cleanliness, and Other facilities on offer, it is definitely way above the rest. And, that is why, we chose to stay there for both the nights.
The next morning, we got up early, and after a leisurely breakfast, we got ready to explore the town. While getting ready, we got it from one of the news channels that it was “Akshay Purnima”, a religiously significant day. We assumed from our earlier experiences that there would be a lot of people at all the places that we would visit due to Akshay Purnima.
Bharat Koop
After a brief discussion with gentleman at the front desk, and after checking about charges for hiring a dedicated cab with guide, we decided it would be better if we explored the town on our own terms. I had already researched about all the places in Chitrakoot well before we started out from Delhi. So, I knew that the nearest place to visit would be Ram Ghat. However, as per the views of a priest in Delhi, my wife told me that we should start the journey with a visit to Bharat Koop, a deep well where Bharat, the younger brother of Lord Ram, poured holy water collected from all the sacred rivers of India. He had brought all that water to anoint Lord Rama while crowning him as the king of Ayodhya. However, after his refusal, Sage Atri advised Bharat to pour the water into that well. Due to the presence of waters from all the sacred rivers, it is believed that a pilgrimage to Chitrakoot is incomplete without visiting this well.
So, we started out for Bharat Koop in a shared taxi, which dropped us at an intersection on the main road passing through the village, which itself is now known as Bharat Koop due to the popularity of the well. From there, the well is about about 2 kms. Away, and within a small temple complex. We could have taken another ride of 5 minutes to reach the well, but, we decided to walk there. It was a good decision as that 30 minute walk through a village was the most pleasant walk in a long – long time. Fields on both sides of the road, mud-walled houses, herds of buffaloes, and half-naked children playing in the dirt. All these visions of the truly rural India made it a worthwhile walk.
It is a tradition that visitors to the well draw water from the well and drink from it and pour a bit of it on themselves. In keeping with the same, my wife drew some water from the well using the metal buckets hung in the well with ropes and pulleys. Both of us poured a few drops on our heads, and drank a bit of the water. Thereafter, we unanimously proclaimed that it is the best water we have had in our lives. No bottled water, purified water or any other water can match its taste. After spending about half-an-hour in the complex, we started out for Ram Ghat. This time we took a ride to the main road, from where we again took a shared taxi back to where we started from.
Ram Ghat
These ghats are situated on the banks of River Mandakini. An “Aarti” (A method of worship using oil lamps) is performed on the ghats everyday, but, in a better manner on special days like Akshay Purnima. It is believed that a dip in the waters on the ghat is must for every visitor. However, looking at the dirty state of water, we decided to give it a slip. Instead, we simply poured a few drops on our head. We were told that it is better to visit the ghats in the evening when the Aarti is performed. So, we decided to revisit the Ghats in the evening.
Kamatanath Ji (Kamadgiri Parvat)
It is a Forested hill situated about 2 Kms. from Ram Ghat. This is the original Chitrakoot from where the town spread outwards. This hill is of prime religious significance due to the fact the Lord Ram stayed here along with his wife Goddess Sita (An Incarnation of Goddess Laxmi), and his younger brother Lord Lakshman (An Incarnation of Lord Sheshnag). He spent a few years of his 14 year exile at this place. Their presence purified the hill and its vicinity as it became an abode of gods.
In keeping with ancient Hindu beliefs, all pilgrims perform a “Parikrama” (Circumambulation) of the hill to get blessings from the gods who made it their abode. A priest told us to ask for forgiveness from the Hill – God, before starting the trip, as we would be trampling it beneath our feet.
The Parikrama itself is a nice trip as one comes across several places of significance during it like Ram Shaiyya, Lakshman Pahadi, Bharat Milap, Saryu Dhara, and, Shabari Ashram. The 5 Mile trip would not take more than two hours at a brisk pace.
Ram Shaiyya
It is believed that Lord Ram used to sleep on a huge rock located here, and, along side him used to be his wife, Goddess Sita. There are certain imprints here, which are supposedly the imprints left on the stone by lying down of the two. Another mark, in the shape of a Bow, is also visible. This rock can be seen from the Parikrama Marg, and, is about about 3 kms. to the west of the pili-kothi ashram.
Lakshman Chowki
This is another rock, which has been accorded religious significance by ancient beliefs. It is about 100 metres away from the Ram Shaiyya with a clear view of the latter. It is believed that Lord Lakshman used to be on guard here to protect Lord Ram and Goddess Sita. This rock bears imprints as well, supposedly made by the sitting of Lord Lakshman with his Bow along side him. This rock is situated on a small hillock called Lakshman Pahadi. There is a flight of steps from the parikrama marg to the top of this hillock.
Bharat Milap
It is believed that Bharat, younger brother of Lord Ram, came to Kamadgiri to meet Lord Ram and take him back to ayodhya. The place where he met Lord Ram, Goddess Sita, and Lord Lakshman, is known as Bharat Milap. It is said that the stones situated there melted due to the flow of emotional flow of brotherly love.
Saryu Dhara
There is, supposedly, a small streamlet somewhere above the fourth mukharvind of Kamatanath Ji. This treamlet, known as Saryu Dhara, is believed to be the site where Poet Tulsidas used to recite the Ramayan to Lord Hanuman everyday, and, Lord Hanuman would write down the same for him.
However, as of now, there is no water that can be seen here, as the local authorities are busy constructing a big pond to accumulate the water from the stream. The half-completed structure says a lot about the charm that it would add to the place.
However, as of now, there is no water that can be seen here, as the local authorities are busy constructing a big pond to accumulate the water from the stream. The half-completed structure says a lot about the charm that it would add to the place.
The Four Mukharvinds of Kamatanath Ji
There are temples that have been constructed at four points of the circumambulation, Parikrama, where devotees pay their respect to the mountain god Kamatanath Ji.
Altogether, the Parikrama is a great experience, even though the path itself is quite dirty at various places, and, add to that the local custom of performing the parikrama bare foot, and, you would realize that you would definitely need a lot of massaging and oiling after the end of the trip.
After performing the parikrama, we were too tired to go anywhere else, and, hence, decided to go back to the tourist bungalow for lunch and some well-deserved rest.
In the evening, we went back to Ram Ghat to witness the Evening Aarti (Lighting of sacred Diyas) . I must say that the evening aarti at Ram Ghat is quite a low profile affair compared to other places like Mathura, Haridwar, Brijghat, and etc. After capturing some good shots, we went around the local market at the ghat for some souvenirs, and, after a good dinner at the bungalow, we retired for the night.
We began the next day with a plan to visit Janki Kund, Sphatik Shila, Ram Darshan, Sati Anusuya Ashram, and Gupt Godavari in succession, and, then, Hanumandhara on the return. There are plenty of Autowallahs who would offer you a trip to the first five at around Rs. 350 – 400. However, we decided to go to each place separately instead of hiring an Auto for all five. We did manage to reach Janki Kund that way, but, soon realized our folly, and decided that it would be better to try and get a shared auto and split the fare. Luckily, at Ram Darshan, we managed to strike a deal with an elderly couple who had hired an Auto for themselves. From there on, the journey was good.
Janki Kund
It is believed to be the place where Goddess Sita used to Bathe. However, the overgrown vegetation all around and molds floating on the water were enough to suggest that we would need to use our imagination to try and visualize what a place it would have been at that time.
Two temples located in the vicinity did attract us, though. The Temple of Mirrors (SHRI TULSI PEETH) and the newly constructed SHRI RAMCHARITMANAS Temple are a must visit. The Temple of Mirrors, as the name suggests, has excellent glass-work all over the walls and the ceilings, and, depicts various sections of the Ramayan in brilliant colours.
The SHRI RAMCHARITMANAS Temple is quite unique in the area as all over the marble walls, one would find the the complete Ramayan engraved beautifully and masterly. Not one word or letter is out of order in the entire temple. We were left awestruck at the skillful artistry of the men who must have spent months in giving shape to that wonder.
Sphatik Shila
This place is known for a large rock where, as per the local beliefs, Lord Ram and Goddess Sita used to sit when they first arrived at Chitrakoot and feasted their eyes on its beauty. The rock still bears imprints made by their sitting on this rock. The interesting fact about this rock is that it is one of its kind in the world. It is supposedly composed largely of Sulphur, but, given its age, it should have degraded long ago.
Ram Darshan
It is a sort of a museum dedicated to Lord Ram and Ramayan. It has a collection of Ramayan translated in various languages, as well as pictures depicting portrayal of Ramayan in various countries as per their local legends. It also has the story of Ramayan depicted in various life size pictures, though, it is broken at places and does not give the complete essence of the epic. Another great thing here is the excellent variety of trees in the gardens, which, correspond to various planets and constellations as per ancient Indian Astrological and Vedic beliefs. Sadly, though, one can only see those trees from windows and cannot go into the gardens.
Sati Anusuya Ashram
This Temple complex with serene surroundings is located about 13 Kms. from Chitrakoot. It is believed to be the place where Sage Atri lived with his wife, Anusuya, and their children. Sati Anusuya is believed to be one of the most pious female figures in Ancient Indian Mythology. It is believed that she had gained such a spiritual strength that even the holy trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh could not fool her, and, as a result, had to live as her children till their wives pleaded with her to let them go.
It is also believed that the River Mandakini emerged in that area as a result of her meditation.
When we reached the complex, we noticed that a new wing is being added to the complex to expand the area covered. There are several rooms dedicated to various well-known sages of all times. Further, there are rooms with pictorial depiction of the mythological stories surrounding the life of Sati Anusuya.
And, just like Sphatik Shila, there were plenty of monkeys vying for anything that they could get from the tourists. We bought some peanuts and threw them amongst the horde, and, suddenly, the horde grew gigantic as dozens of monkeys emerged out of nowhere. We came to know that this is a regular feature in most of the temples and tourist spots in and around Chitrakoot. It is so much so that tourists are advised not to carry any eatables in their hands or in easy visibility, else, the monkeys and langurs would snatch it from them.
Gupt Godavari
It is a group of caves located about 19 Kms. from Chitrakoot. There is a tiny stream of water flowing into the caves, and, the water accumulates into small tanks in one of the caves, and, forms a small stream in another. No one has been able to locate the source of all this water (Probably because no one would be allowed to do so due to the religious significance of the place). But, I must say that a walk in the waters of the stream in the second cave, to reach the end of the cave where idols of Lord Ram and lakshman are placed, was quite enjoyable except for the fact that one has to do it barefoot and there are plenty of stones eager to hurt one's feet.
Hanuman Dhara
It is considered to be an ancient temple, dedicated to Lord Hanuman, located almost at the top of a hill. One can approach the temple either by the Old Staircase with 360 steps or the new Staircase with about 650 Steps. We took the new staircase as it was clearly in a better condition, and, with safety support on both sides.
The climb was tiring, but, the beautiful views all around, from that height, were enough to forget all the hard-work done in climbing to the temple.
Regarding the temple, it is believed that Lord Ram made a spring appear from this hill to cool down the body of Lord Hanuman when he came back from Lanka after lighting fire to the whole city.
A look at the place and my athiest came to the fore, and, I started asking questions from myself about whether the story is genuine or not, as it does not correspond to the texts. Further, the water is coming out mysteriously and there is no logical source of the same.
Another 100 feet towards the top and we reached “Sita Rasoi”, a place where, as per local beliefs, Goddess Sita used to cook food. However, the interiors made it quite hard for me to believe this story.
Anyways, it is a must visit simply due to the location and the views.
It was evening by the time we returned from Hanuman Dhara, and, after another small trip to Ram Ghat, specifically to buy something to remember the trip with, we returned to the tourist bungalow.
We wanted to extend the trip by a day, as there is a lot more to see around Chitrakoot, but, time constraints did not allow us to do so.
During our stay at the place, we were told about various other places that one can visit around Chitrakoot.
It is famous for its richly carved temple complex as well as a Residential palace. There is a seven – storeyed baoli (Artificial Water Pond) in the complex as well. Some visitors to this place have described it as a mini Khajuraho.
It is famous for scenic views, Waterfalls, ruins of a fort, and a five-faced statue of Lord Shiva. It is located about 5-6 Kms. from Gupt Godavari
It is a place with special religious significance. As per locals, one dip in the Ganga Kund of this Ashram is equal to a several dips in the River Ganges (Holiest River as per Hindu Mythology). There is a Shiva Temple here along with 108 Yagya Vedikas.
We wanted to extend the trip by a day, as there is a lot more to see around Chitrakoot, but, time constraints did not allow us to do so.
During our stay at the place, we were told about various other places that one can visit around Chitrakoot.
Ganeshbagh
It is famous for its richly carved temple complex as well as a Residential palace. There is a seven – storeyed baoli (Artificial Water Pond) in the complex as well. Some visitors to this place have described it as a mini Khajuraho.
Marpha
It is famous for scenic views, Waterfalls, ruins of a fort, and a five-faced statue of Lord Shiva. It is located about 5-6 Kms. from Gupt Godavari
Sarbhang Ashram
It is a place with special religious significance. As per locals, one dip in the Ganga Kund of this Ashram is equal to a several dips in the River Ganges (Holiest River as per Hindu Mythology). There is a Shiva Temple here along with 108 Yagya Vedikas.
Kalinjar Fort
This mighty fort houses a number of temples like Nilkanth Temple, Vakhandehswar Mahadev Temple, and etc., apart from various other interesting places like Patal Ganga, Pandu Kund, Koti Tirth, etc. It is located about 88 Kms. from Chitrakoot.
Shabari Falls ("Shabari Jal Prapaat" in Hindi)
A waterfall, which is not heard of even by the locals in Chitrakoot, but, is very beautiful and charming as per accounts. It is located somewhere near Jamunihai Village, which is about 7-8 Kms. from Markundi village.
Tips for Travelers
Do not feed the Monkeys and Langurs too often. And, do not carry any eatables or plastic bags in your hands, especially if it is easily visible.
Carry plenty of coins (At least 200) with yourself as you would be coerced into dropping a few at the feet of each and every idol placed in every temple. We calculated and found out that we had dropped more than 150 Rs. in coins in the two days that we stayed there, not taking into account the change we used to buy eatables for Monkeys. Even if you do not carry many, you would find several vendor who would give you the change for a commission. We got plenty of coins without any commission in Sati Anusuya Ashram though.
Travel in groups. Even if there are only 2-3 of you, try and party up with other travelers. This would not only increase the safety, but, would be cheaper as well.